Monthly Archives: April 2012

Gallipoli, Churchill, and not hating your enemy

The town of Canakkale, on the south shore of the Dardanelles strait that leads from the Sea of Marmara to the Mediterranean, was packed with Australians.  It took me several phone calls to find a hotel, and even then it … Continue reading

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Bursa, home of the virtuoso muezzin

In Bursa on our first morning there, for a change I was not awakened by the muezzin’s cry at 5:00 a.m. That was unfortunate.  Graham and I agreed, after the previous evening’s performance by that muezzin at the nearby Ulu … Continue reading

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On Troy and the art of getting on the right bus

Yesterday I learned the difference between Ayvalik and Ayvacik.  These are two almost identically-named towns that, perversely, are both located on Turkey’s Aegean coast within a couple of hours of each other.  But the important thing is, they are not … Continue reading

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On two wheels, around the planet

Graham and I met this French couple at a pensyon (Turkish spelling) in Iznik yesterday morning over breakfast.  Allégra and David started cycling around the world about two and a half years ago, in French Guiana in South America, and … Continue reading

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Graham’s Turkey blog

This is Graham’s new blog covering our Turkey meanderings and musings, so now you can check out both his perspective and mine. http://jivingturkey.wordpress.com/

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Iznik and the Nicene Creed

We came to Iznik only because the front desk clerk at our hotel in Istanbul happened to mention to us, as we were checking out, that if we were taking the ferry across the Sea of Marmara and then grabbing … Continue reading

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Rooftop breakfasts and language adventures

The sun is shining on the hotel rooftop terrace, seagulls wheel overhead, and a cool breeze is blowing off the Bosporus.  The Turkish coffee is excellent.  At the next table, a woman with a head scarf sits chatting with her … Continue reading

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